Ði Tsa Yi Tɔmelãdzraƒe Gãtɔ Kekeake le Xexeame Katã

ETSO NYƆ! ŊLƆLA SI LE JAPAN GBƆ

ÐE ALESI asime nɔna hoo la doa dzidzɔ na wòa? Asi aɖe si me yiyi ado dzidzɔ na wò eye le nyateƒe me wòhea modzakaɖetsaɖilawo tso xexeame ƒe teƒe geɖewo enye Tsukiji, tɔmelãdzraƒe si nàzɔ miniti ʋɛ aɖewo tso Tokyo titina ko aɖo. Wogblɔna be tɔmelãdzraƒe gãtɔ kekeake le xexeame katãe asi sia nye.

Ɣeyiɣi nyuitɔ si nàyie nye ŋdi kanya. Ɣeyiɣi si me Tokyo-tɔ mamlɛawo ƒe alɔ̃ tsie asi sia ya ɖina vevie, elabena agbatsɔʋuwo kua tɔmelã siwo ƒe agbɔsɔsɔ ɖona tɔn akpe eve sɔŋ vaa emee gbesiagbe. Ele be woaɖe lãgba siawo katã aɖo agbae kaba, elabena kaka fɔŋli 3:00 naƒo la, asisiwo te vava. Lãdzralawo wɔna kaba tsɔa woƒe lãɖaka, siwo dzi woŋlɔ dzesidexexlẽdzesi, lã si le aɖakaa me ƒe kpekpeme, kple afisi woɖee le ɖo la, ɖoa asii. Mesesẽ kura be woakpɔ lãƒlelawo adze sii o. Wodoa tsimezɔfɔkpa heɖɔa kuku siwo dzi woƒe ɖaseɖixexlẽdzesiwo le. To vovo na modzakatsaɖilawo, siwo zɔna blewu zi geɖe la, lãƒlelawo nɔa kplakplakpla dzi nɔa ŋku lém ɖe lãwo ƒe nyonyome  ŋu henɔa asi dom ɖe wo ŋu. Amesiwo va kpokpoŋku ƒle ge léa ƒu, tɔtsi, kple papahũ ɖe asi. Nusiawo le vevie hena kpokpoŋku gãwo ƒe nyonyome dodokpɔ, eye wotsɔna papahũa tutua asii le asikaka lãwo ŋu megbe.

Asia tɔa zi tsoa ŋdi ga 5:30. Nudzragaviwo tea ɖiɖi le asia ƒe akpa sia akpa esime lãdzralawo le lãƒlelawo yɔm be woava yewoaƒo asi le lãwo ŋu. Lãdzralawo xɔa asi bliboa me. Adzɔha adre koŋue dzraa lã le agbɔsɔsɔ gã ŋutɔ me, siwo katã tsɔa woƒe lãwo ɖoa asii le ɣeyiɣi ɖeka me, gake nudzrala eve alo etɔ̃ bubu le adzɔha aɖewo si, siwo dzraa nu vovovowo le ɣeyiɣi ma ke me. Lãdzrala siawo katã tsɔa gbe vovovo nɔa lãɖakawo dzi xexlẽdzesiwo yɔm sesĩe, eye lãƒlela vovovo siwo se ɖe mɔ na la zãa woƒe asibidɛwo tsɔ wɔa dzesi tɔxɛ aɖewo le asidodo ɖe lãɖakawo ŋu me. Asibidɛdzesiwɔwɔa tsɔna ale gbegbe be sɛkɛnd ʋɛ aɖe koe wozãna le asidodo ɖe lãɖaka ɖeka ɖesiaɖe ŋu me. Lãƒlela aɖewo ƒoa asi kple lãdzrala eve le ɣeyiɣi ɖeka me. Lãƒlela ɖeka koe woɖea mɔ na wògena ɖe lãdzraxɔ ɖesiaɖe me, eyata ɖe lãƒlelawo nɔa du dzi tsoa lãdzraxɔ si me yia kemɛ me be woaƒle lã si dim wole. Amesiwo ƒlea lã hamehamewo le agbɔsɔsɔ gãwo me be yewoaɖadzra le lãdzraƒe bubuwoe anya nɔa kplakplakpla dzi wu.

Ne lãƒlelawo nya ƒo asia vɔ teti ko la, wodina vevie be yewoatsɔ lã siwo katã yewoƒle la aɖadzra enumake. Agbatetsɔla siwo tutua keke kple agbatsɔʋu suewo tsɔa lã siawo toa mɔdodo xaxɛwo dzi du kple du. Teƒe bliboa katã nɔa hedzehedze. Ðeko nàsusu be tɔtɔe ɖo ameawo dome le asi bliboa me. Ke hã, nusianu le edzi yim le ɖoɖo nu pɛpɛpɛ. Le gaƒoƒo ʋɛ aɖewo ko me la, wodzraa lã tɔn akpe ɖeka kple edzivɔ wolɔna dzonae. Wotsɔa lã siawo ƒe akpa aɖe yia lãdzraƒe suewo le asia ƒe teƒe bubuwo ɖadzrana na lãƒlela akpe geɖe asiasi le ŋdigaƒoƒo mawo me.

Àkpɔe zi ɖeka be asia menye asi vi kura o. Adzɔha gã adre ye dzraa lã le agbɔsɔsɔ gã me na asisi akpe ɖeka kple edzivɔ siwo xɔ mɔɖegbalẽ hena asitsatsa le asi sia me. Vovo menɔa wo ŋu ɣeaɖekeɣi le ƒe bliboa me o, eye wonɔa lãdzadzra dzi na asisi siwo ade 40,000 ya teti, amesiwo vaa Tsukiji-sia me gbesiagbe.

Amekawoe nye asisiawo? Wo dometɔ aɖewoe nye amesiwo ƒlea lã le agbɔsɔsɔ gã me ɖadzrana le amedzrodzeƒe gãwo, nuɖuɖudzraƒe gãwo, kple fiase gãwo me. Amesiwo si nuɖuɖudzraƒe suewo le, amesiwo dzraa lã le kɔme lãdzraƒewo, kple amesiwo ɖaa mɔlu dzrana hã vana. Asisi siawo katã dia lã nyuitɔwo be yewoaƒle. Wobu  akɔnta be tɔmelã siwo wo katã woƒlena le ƒe ɖeka me la wua tɔn 600,000, si ƒe home wua dɔlar biliɔn 5.

Gake menye lã koe wodzrana le Tsukiji-sia me o. Wodzraa atikutsetse kple detsiƒonuwo hã le agbɔsɔsɔ gã me. Enye asi 11 siwo le Tokyo titina siwo me wodzraa nuwo le agbɔsɔsɔ gã me, siwo le Tokyo-nutome dziɖuɖua ƒe dzikpɔkpɔ te la, dometɔ ɖeka. Woate ŋu ado afɔ na ɣeyiɣi si me wote nuɖuɖu mumu dzadzra le asiwo me age ɖe keke ƒe 1603 me. Be woakpɔ egbɔ be wotsɔa beléle tɔxɛ na nusiwo dzram wole eye be wole dzadzɛ la, wona asi siawo va le dziɖuɖua ŋutɔ ƒe dzikpɔkpɔ te le ƒe 1877 me. Anyigbaʋuʋu si dzɔ le Tokyo le ƒe 1923 me gblẽ nu le Tokyo-siwo ŋu, si na be wova tu Tsukiji-si si li egbea, hedze ezazã gɔme le ƒe 1935 me.

Tso ɣemaɣi la, asia va keke ta ale gbegbe. Xexeame ƒe akpa kae nàgakpɔ lã hamehame agbɔsɔsɔ gã sia le gbesiagbe? Wobu akɔnta be wotsɔa lãwo abe sama, cod, sikasika, ʋetim, afɔƒome, adruku, kple sea urchin, sea cucumber, kpakple gomelã—hamehame 450 tso xexeame ƒe akpa vovovowo—ene va dzrana le afisia. Ƒumelã ɖeka tɔgbe aɖewo, abe bosrã alo bɔlu ene, koe lãdzraƒe sue siwo le asia me la dometɔ aɖewo dzrana.

Gake lã siwo wotsɔna vaa afisia dometɔ aɖe ya to vovo kura. Eyae nye kpokpoŋku gã siwo wotsɔna dea yameʋu tsoa keke Mediterranea-ƒua me kple Dziehe Amerika ke vanɛ. Lã bubu aɖeke ƒe lolome alo home medea kpokpoŋku sia nu o. Kpokpoŋku gã ɖeka ate ŋu axɔ dɔlar akpe geɖe. Wodzraa kpokpoŋku siwo woɖe yeye kple esiwo woɖe xoxo tsɔ de nufamɔ̃wo me alafa geɖe le afisia gbesiagbe. Lãƒlelawo flia kpokpoŋkua ɖe lolome aɖe me hafi ɖadzrana na woƒe asisiwo. Kpokpoŋku ƒe amiteƒe, si woyɔna be toro, si woɖena le eƒe axame lae mɔluɖadzralawo anya zãna, si vivia amewo nu ale gbegbe.

Mewɔ nuku be Japan ye lãdzraƒe gãtɔ kekeake le, le xexeame o. Atsiaƒu gã gbanaa ɖeka kple ƒu sue etɔ̃ bubuwo titinae dukɔa le, eyatae Japantɔwo lɔ̃ ƒumelãwo vevie tso gbaɖegbe ke ɖo. Zi geɖe la, tɔmelã koŋue Japantɔwo zãna le woƒe nuɖuɖu akpa gãtɔ me. Ƒe sia ƒe la, Japantɔ ɖesiaɖe kloe ɖua tɔmelã kple gomelã si ade kilogram 70, si ƒe akpa gã aɖe woƒlena tso Tsukiji-sia me. Eyata ne wòava eme be nàɖi tsa ayi Tokyo gbeɖeka la, nukatae màwɔ ɖeka kple modzakaɖetsaɖila gbogbo siwo tsoa xexeame ƒe akpa sia akpa ɖia tsa yia tɔmelãdzraƒe gãtɔ kekeake si le xexeame la o?

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Tɔmelãwo ƒe tataawo: Etso agbalẽ si nye L’Art Pour Tous, Encyclopedie de l’Art Industriel et Decoratif, Vol. 31, 1861-1906 me

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James L. Stanfield/NGS Image Collection

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© Jeff Rotman/www.JeffRotman.com

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Courtesy of Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market