Prague​—Come Visit Our Historic Jewel

BY AWAKE! WRITER IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC

HOW would you like to visit a city with over a thousand years of history​—a city whose architecture stretches from 10th-century Romanesque to Gothic, Renaissance, baroque, rococo, classical, neoclassic, and 20th-century Art Nouveau? Then come with us to Prague, a jewel of Central Europe. The Czech language is by no means easy; however, if you bring along a phonetic phrase book, it will be a great help. But first of all, where is Prague?

Take a look at a map of Europe. Find Berlin, the capital of Germany, over toward the east. Follow a straight line some 200 miles [300 km] south, and the first major city you hit in the Czech Republic will be Prague, the capital. Farther south and east, you will see Vienna, Austria, and then Budapest, Hungary. All these cities are within a few hours of each other by car.

Prague straddles the Vltava River (Moldau in German). For purposes of our visit, we can divide central Prague into five areas. (See the map on page 23.) The first area is on the west bank, high on a hill. Here you will see Prague Castle and Hradc̆any, the town that was founded on the outskirts of the castle about 1320. Inside the castle area is the huge Gothic St. Vitus’ Cathedral, which was started in 1344 but not finished until 1929. It houses the crown jewels and the tomb of Prince Wenceslas. To get to the castle area, you can take public transportation or walk. It is a stiff climb, so be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes! While in the castle area, do not miss the unusual miniature houses and gift shops in Golden Lane (Czech, Zlatá Ulic̆ka). These were built in the late 1500’s for members of the palace guard. Later, in the 17th century, they were occupied by goldsmiths. Thus, the name.

To the south of the castle area is the Little Quarter, Malá Strana. One guidebook states: “The quarter is rich in splendid Baroque palaces  and old houses with attractive signs.” Prague is known as the City of a Hundred Spires, although there are many more, reminding us of a time when many of the Czech people were religiously inclined. Here in the Little Quarter, we find some of those churches, although poorly attended these days in the post-Communist era. One of the most famous is the Church of St. Nicholas. Its construction was started in 1703 and completed in 1761. It took so long that although the church was the work of father and son architects, neither lived long enough to see it finished.

Crossing the Vltava

There are at least seven bridges that cross the Vltava to the east side of Prague. The most famous is the Charles Bridge (Karlu̇v Most), reserved for pedestrians. If you have not walked the length of this bridge, some 1,700 feet [520 m], you have not experienced Prague. Try it early in the morning and in the evening. The different light effects make it worth the effort.

The bridge connects the Little Quarter on the left bank with the Old Town on the eastern, right bank. The Charles Bridge is usually swarming with tourists, sidewalk entertainers, and vendors, all in an atmosphere of relaxed enjoyment. You will probably hear a very creditable Czech jazz group playing New Orleans favorites. They even sell compact discs and cassettes of their enthusiastic renditions. At other spots, you might find students trying to make a little money by selling exquisite porcelain miniatures of the most famous buildings in the Old Town Square. You can almost recreate the square, including the famous astronomical clock, in your curio cabinet at home!

But now pay attention to the dozens of statues of Catholic “saints” that line both sides of the bridge. So much of Czech religious history is summed up in these. Their dates of installment go from John Nepomuk (1683) all the way to Cyril and Methodius (1938). However, the most striking figure for many Bible students is that of the Christ, which dates from 1629. What is special about it?

It is encircled by gilded Hebrew script that includes the Tetragrammaton, four Hebrew letters. These represent the divine name, Jehovah, which appears nearly 7,000 times in the Hebrew Scriptures.

The Old Town Will Really Surprise You

Once you cross the Charles Bridge and pass under the Old Town Bridge Tower (look for the sculptured kingfisher on the eastern facade, Wenceslas’ favorite personal symbol), you will be in the Old Town, where you will not be able to put your camera down! The area is an endless architectural feast for the eyes. If you go straight as you come off the bridge, you will find yourself on Charles Street (Karlova), which connects to a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets crowded with small shops and many customers. But look around at the different Renaissance and baroque styles.

As you wander and wonder at what you are seeing, you will suddenly come across the Old Town Square, and the first thing you might see is a crowd of people staring at a clock, especially if it is about to strike the hour. This is the Town Hall Clock, a fascinating astronomical clock. But don’t expect astronomical accuracy. This clock was designed when people still believed that the earth was the center of the universe and that the sun and the stars revolved around it. Nevertheless, it is a masterpiece  of clock making and engineering. *​—See the box on this page.

Now we advance into the Old Town Square, which is breathtaking because of its beautiful buildings and varied architecture. The square is so extensive that even crowds fail to diminish its size. There is a lot to see. Take your time, and consult your guidebook to know what you are looking at. That huge church in the distance with twin towers and many spires is called the Týn Church and dates from 1365. Space does not permit us to dwell on more of the magnificent buildings in this incredible square, such as the rococo Golz-Kinský Palace.

In the center of the square is a massive monument to the Czech religious reformer John Hus (1372-1415). Although a Catholic priest, he brought the ire of the hierarchy down on himself for daring to expose the corrupt morals of the clergy and for attacking the sale of indulgences. Even though promised safe-conduct if he attended the Council of Constance to explain his views, Hus was condemned as a heretic and burned at the stake.

Prague’s Jewish Past

The fourth area, not to be missed, is the Jewish Quarter, called Josefov in Czech. It was named after Joseph II in 1784, when discrimination against the Jews was softened. One of the highlights of this quarter is the Old-New Synagogue. It was built about 1270 and is the oldest synagogue in Europe that is still in use. It is also one of the earliest Gothic buildings to be found in Prague. You can enter the synagogue, and if you look carefully, you will find an example of the divine name in Hebrew ​—but don’t attempt to photograph anything. A guard may soon escort you off the premises if you do not obey the ban on photographs.

In the same neighborhood, you can peer through the gates at an old Jewish cemetery and see thousands of gravestones with Hebrew inscriptions. Nearby is the Jewish Town Hall with its two clocks​—one with Roman numerals and the other with Hebrew letters.

The nearby Pinkas Synagogue “now serves as a memorial to the 77,297 Bohemian and Moravian Jews who lost their lives in the Nazi gas chambers.” Their names, including 36,000 Jews from Prague, are inscribed on the interior walls.​—Prague Art and History.

The Ancient “New Town”

The last area we will visit is the New Town (Nové Mĕsto). Although called new, it was actually founded by Charles IV as a horse market in 1348. Its most famous landmark is Wenceslas Square, described as “the consumer centre of contemporary Prague.” There are a few Art Nouveau facades, such as that of the beautiful Hotel Evropa, but the main point of interest is the equestrian statue of Wenceslas erected in 1912.

We cannot complete a visit to Prague without remembering its cultural heritage, especially in the field of music. So don’t miss a visit to the National Theatre and the State Opera. Millions of classical music lovers have listened to the “New World Symphony,” by Antonin Dvorak. You will find the Dvorak Museum housed in a red-and-ocher baroque villa. The acknowledged “father of Czech music” is Bedr̆ich Smetana, “a composer with a genuine Czech heart,” as Franz Liszt wrote. He is specially known for his cycle of symphonic poems called “Má Vlast” (My Homeland) and the section called Vltava, which is a musical description of the river that runs through Prague. The Smetana Museum is located on the waterfront in the Old Town.

There is so much more to see and appreciate in Prague! You must see it for yourself. Come and experience a thousand years of history and culture!

[Footnote]

[Box/Picture on page 23]

The Astronomical Clock

The clock has three sections. On the hour the two windows in the upper portion open, allowing you to see a procession of the 12 apostles. Interestingly, Judas Iscariot and James the son of Alphaeus have been replaced by Paul and Barnabas, who are not counted among the 12 apostles in the Bible. Just below the apostles is a skeleton, the symbol of Death. It starts the process as an introduction to the apostles. In its left hand, it raises an hourglass, which is then inverted. Other moving figures are a cock crowing, a Turk shaking his head, Vanity looking in a mirror, and Greed in the form of an avaricious moneylender.

Among other things, the astronomical clock indicates three kinds of time​—old Bohemian time in Arabic numerals, our modern time in Roman numerals, and the 12-part division of daylight time according to the Babylonian system. Now you see why you need to spend time studying this ornate clock!

[Map on page 23]

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Central Prague

Prague Castle and Hradc̆any

Little Quarter

Vltava River

Jewish Quarter

Old Town

New Town

[Picture on page 22]

The Hebrew script includes the Tetragrammaton

[Picture on page 24]

Art Nouveau palace with baroque features

 [Picture on page 24, 25]

Charles Bridge

[Picture on page 25]

Old Town Hall clock tower and St. Nicholas Church

[Picture on page 25]

View inside St. Vitus’ Cathedral

[Picture on page 25]

Wenceslas Square