Acinipo​—A Forgotten Ancient Outpost

By Awake! writer in Spain

IT WAS awesome to find ourselves walking where Iberians and Romans had trodden two thousand and more years ago. My companion and I had driven from San Pedro de Alcántara, on the coast of Málaga in southern Spain, to visit some of the pueblos blancos (white towns) of Andalusia. We drove north on a mountain road, past the Sierra de las Nieves on our right, with its Pico Torrecilla rising to some 6,300 feet [1,900 m]. The scenery, though inspiring, hardly prepared us for the view as we descended toward the historic walled city of Ronda. This fascinating jewel was inhabited over the millenniums by, among others, the Celts (who called it Arunda), the Greeks, the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Vandals, and the Berbers (Moors), who defeated the Visigoths in the eighth century C.E.

Our objective, however, was Ronda la Vieja, Old Ronda, known in ancient times as Acinipo (pronounced Athinipo). A Spanish encyclopedia says that this name, of Sidonian origin, came from Phoenician merchants who settled there from Sidon, which is today in Lebanon. The name is related to ancient Greek and Latin words that refer to grapes. Ancient coins carry on one side the name Acinipo and ears of wheat, while on the reverse side, there is a bunch of grapes. Evidently, agriculture and wine-making were principal occupations. One source says that Acinipo, “thanks to its geographical position . . . , became a big city, becoming a municipality with power to mint coins, and later its inhabitants had the same rights as any citizen from Imperial Rome.”

From our travel guide and maps, we knew that Acinipo should lie a few miles to the northwest of Ronda. My American friend was excited. This was his first trip to Europe and his first opportunity to see evidence of the Roman Empire.

As we wended our way along a narrow country road, we found that the ruins were not easy to locate. We stopped to ask for help from a shepherd who was grazing his sheep. He assured us that we would find Ronda la Vieja just a few miles ahead. Sure enough, we suddenly espied an escarpment rising above us that looked like an easily defensible position. When we got to the entrance of the archaeological site, we found a hillside rising before us and could see heaps of ancient rubble in every direction. These turned out to be former dwellings, perhaps dating from Roman times. Evidently, at one time, there had been a sizable population here. High up on the hill, about half a mile [1 km] away, was what looked like a solid stone wall. It intrigued us. What ruins would we find?

Why a City Here?

Why did the Romans choose to build a city here, apparently in the middle of nowhere? Because it could not be approached by an enemy without the  inhabitants knowing it. The Romans were not the first to see the advantages of this strategic spot. Archaeologists say that the site was occupied by ancient peoples over 4,000 years ago. With the advent of the Phoenicians about 1000 B.C.E., Acinipo became an important part of their commercial activities, as it was an ideal inland connecting point between Málaga and Cádiz, which were coastal colonies.

A guard was on duty at the entrance to the ruins, and after a few brief words, he allowed us to go through the old gateway. Over to the right, there was evidence of round-shaped dwellings from the eighth and seventh centuries B.C.E. We started trekking up the hill and came upon stones that had formed part of the forum, built by the Romans. Archaeologists deduce from the remains unearthed here that there were public buildings at this point and that the square (plaza) was the true nerve center of the city.

A Unique Theater

Our eyes were again drawn to the high wall at the top of the hill. We wondered what it could have been in Roman times. As we got nearer, we realized that we were approaching the backdrop of a theater. It was made of stone, with a large arch and a tower. Following the Roman custom, the stones were cut and set without cement. When we stepped through the arch, we found ourselves on the stage, looking at steps and seating for perhaps a thousand people. It had been hewed out of the rock hillside. It impressed us to think that we were standing where Roman actors and orators had performed!

The Romans knew how to make the most of mountainsides, by turning them into theaters. Vestiges of Roman theaters and amphitheaters can be found in places as far apart as Mérida in western Spain, Trier in Germany, and Nîmes and Arles in France, and even as far north as Caerleon in Wales. There are famous ones in Pompeii and Rome. The Roman Colosseum had seating for 50,000 people! Remains of more than 75 Roman amphitheaters are scattered throughout the limits of the former Roman Empire. Traveling groups of actors went from theater to theater, entertaining with their performances.

The theater at Acinipo is the best-conserved part of the city. Its seating takes advantage of the hill’s gradient and is protected from the wind that comes whistling over the escarpment higher up. The theater is designed to make the best use of the natural acoustics.

We climbed to the top of the escarpment. The view in every direction was magnificent. Way over to our left, to the south, was Ronda, and to the right, or the north, was the ancient city of Olvera. With ominous dark clouds as a backdrop, we sat down in the theater on this lonely hillside and tried to imagine the scene as it might have been about 2,000 years ago in the busy but isolated Roman city of Acinipo. We wondered what else remains to be discovered about this unique site. Perhaps, in time, the resurrection of its former inhabitants will reveal its secrets.​—John 5:28, 29; Acts 24:15.

[Map on page 14]

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MADRID

Acinipo

Ronda

Málaga

 [Picture on page 15]

Entrance sign: “Archaeological Site of Acinipo”

[Picture on page 15]

Rubble of Roman dwellings

[Picture on page 15]

Theater backdrop

[Picture on page 15]

Theater and stage

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Corner tower of theater

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Hilltop on which Acinipo is situated

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In the foreground, foundations of pre-Roman dwellings