Mafashoni Amasinthasintha

TSIKU lililonse, kaya modziŵa kapena mosadziŵa, timasankha kuvala zovala zinazake mogwirizanako ndithu ndi zimene zili m’fasho. Pa zovala zonse zimene zimagulitsidwa, zambiri zimakhalapo makamaka chifukwa cha mafashoni.

Ngakhale zovala zimene masiku ano timaziona ngati zovala wamba panthaŵi inayake zinali m’fasho. Mwachitsanzo, kuvala shati ndi tayi kunali m’fasho zaka zopitirira 100 zapitazo. Ndipo majuzi a akazi anatchuka kalekale m’ma 1920.

Pali zinthu ziŵiri zimene zimachititsa kuti pakhale mafashoni; kufuna zinthu zatsopano ndiponso kuopa kutsalira. Pafupifupi aliyense amafuna kuvala chinthu chatsopano. N’chifukwa chake nthaŵi zina timagula chovala china osati popeza kuti chimene tili nachocho chatha, koma pofuna kungosinthako basi. Komanso, posafuna kuoneka otsalira timagula zovala zogwirizanako ndithu ndi zimene anzathu amavala. M’mbuyo monsemu osoka zovala akhala akupanga zovala zinazake pofuna kukhutiritsa kapena kutengerapo mwayi pa chikhumbo chimenechi chofuna zinthu zatsopano kapena choopa kutsalira.

Mbiri Yake Mwachidule

Kuti akonze sitayelo inayake ya chovala, okonza zovala amaganizira zinthu zisanu zofunika izi: mtundu wa nsalu, mmene chikaonekere chikapangidwa, mmene chiyenera kugwirira thupi, mmene nsalu yake imamvekera mukamaisisita, ndiponso patani yake. Kwa zaka zambirimbiri, okonza masitayelo a zovala ndiponso osoka zovala akhala akukonza masitayelo osiyanasiyana pogwiritsira ntchito zinthu zisanu zimenezi. Mwachitsanzo, kalekale ku Egypt anthu ankakonda kwambiri nsalu za bafuta zopyapyala zoonetsa m’kati zopangidwa m’dzikomo ndipo nsaluzi zinalinso zogwirizana ndi nyengo yotentha ya kumeneko. Koma chifukwa chakuti nsalu za bafuta zinali zovuta kuzipaka utoto, nthaŵi zambiri nsaluzi zinkangokhala zoyera basi. Komabe anthu okonza zovala a ku Egypt nsaluzi ankazipinda bwino moti zovala zake zinkagwira bwino thupi la munthu ndiponso maonekedwe ake anali okoma. Umu ndi mmene inayambira sitayelo imeneyi, yomwe ndi imodzi mwa masitayelo amene akhalapo kwa nthaŵi yaitali padziko lonse.

Pofika zaka 100 zoyambirira za Nyengo Yathu Ino, kunabwera nsalu zopotedwa m’njira zatsopano ndiponso za mitundu ina yatsopano. Aroma olemera ankaitanitsa nsalu za silika kuchokera ku China kapena ku India koma chifukwa choti zinkachokera kutali nsaluzi zinali zokwera mtengo kwambiri ngati golidi. Nsalu zina zimene zinali m’fasho zinali nsalu zaubweya zopakidwa utoto zochokera ku Turo, zomwe mtengo wake pa kilogalamu imodzi yokha unali ndalama zokwana madinari 2,000, zomwe ndi ndalama zonse zimene antchito ambiri ankapeza pa zaka sikisi. Chifukwa cha kupezeka kwa utoto ndiponso nsalu zatsopanozi, akazi olemera a chiroma anayamba kuvala mikanjo ya nsalu zathonje za utoto wa buluu zochokera ku India kapena nsalu za silika za utoto wa yelo zochokera ku China.

Ngakhale kuti pakapita nthaŵi kunkabwera masitayelo ena, kale chovala chamtengo wapatali chinkatha kukhala m’fasho kwa moyo wonse wa munthu. Kusintha kunkachitika mwapang’onopang’ono ndipo nthaŵi zambiri kunkangokhudza anthu apamwamba basi. Koma kukwera kwa ntchito za mafakitale kunachititsa kuti mafashoni ayambe kukhudzanso kwambiri anthu wamba.

M’ma 1800 kunayamba kupezeka mafakitale  opanga zovala zokhazokha omwe ankapanga zovala za anthu olemera ndi osauka omwe. Makina owomba nsalu za thonje ndiponso zaubweya wa nyama anachuluka ndipo mitengo ya nsalu inatsika. Mitengo ya zovala inayamba kutsika chifukwa ankazisoka pa makina, ndipo nsaluzi zinayamba kupezeka m’mitundu yosiyanasiyana popeza kuti anayamba kupanga utoto wa mitundu yosiyanasiyana.

Kusintha kwa chikhalidwe ndi zaumisiri kunathandizanso kwambiri kuti anthu wamba ayambe kupeza zovala mosavuta. Kumwera kwa Ulaya ndi kumpoto kwa America, anthu anali ndi ndalama zoti angathe kugula zinthu. Cha m’ma 1850, kunayamba kutuluka magazini amene amakonzera anthu aakazi, ndipo posakhalitsa masitolo akuluakulu anayamba kugulitsa zovala zosokasoka za masaizi osiyanasiyana. Komanso m’ma 1800, Charles Frederick Worth anayambitsa zionetsero zoonetsa zovala zimene zili m’fasho. Pazionetserozo anthu ankavala zovalazo n’cholinga chokopa anthu ofuna kugula zovalazo.

M’ma 1900, nsalu zatsopano monga za rayoni, nailoni, ndi poliyesita, zinathandiza kuti opanga zovala athe kugwiritsira ntchito nsalu zosiyanasiyana. Kukonza masitayelo pa kompyuta kunachititsa kuti zikhale zosavuta kupanga masitayelo atsopano, ndipo chifukwa chakuti masiku ano malonda akuyenda padziko lonse mafashoni atsopano akutha kupezeka nthaŵi imodzimodzi kungoyambira ku Tokyo, New York, Paris, mpaka ku Saõ Paulo. Pakali pano okonza masitayelo a zovala ndiponso opanga zovala apeza njira zatsopano zokopera anthu kuti azigula zovala zawo.

Masiku ano, achinyamata ndiwo aloŵa m’malo mwa anthu olemera pankhani yofuna kwambiri zovala za m’fasho. Mwezi uliwonse achinyamata ambirimbiri amagula zovala zatsopano, ndipo okonza zovala amakonza zovala za ndalama zochuluka zedi chaka chilichonse. * Koma kodi zimenezi munthu angagwe nazo m’mbuna?

[Mawu a M’munsi]

 [Bokosi/Zithunzi pamasamba 4, 5]

Oyambitsa Mafasho

Kwa zaka zambiri m’mbuyomo, anthu ankatengera kavalidwe ka mafumu ndiponso anthu apamwamba. M’ma 1600, Mfumu Louis 13 ya ku France inaganiza zomavala wigi kuti izibisa dazi lake. Posakhalitsa, anthu apamwamba a ku Ulaya anayambanso kumeta mpala n’kumavala mawigi ndipo izi zinakhala m’fasho kwa zaka zopitirira 100.

M’ma 1800 magazini amene amakonzera anthu aakazi anatchukitsa kwambiri mafashoni ndipo pofuna kuti akazi azitha kusoka okha zovala, m’magaziniŵa ankajambulamo mapatani osalira ndalama zambiri. M’ma 1900, mafilimu ndi ma TV atayamba kutchuka, anthu anayambanso kutengera kavalidwe ka anthu otchuka m’ma TV ndi m’mafilimuwo. Oyimba nyimbo otchuka nawonso anayamba kuvala zovala zocheukitsa, zimene achinyamata ambiri sanachedwe kuzitsanzira. Masiku ano zinthu sizinasinthe ngakhale pang’ono chifukwa onenerera malonda akukopa anthu kuti azifuna zovala zongotuluka kumene ndipo akutero pogwiritsira ntchito zionetsero za mafashoni, magazini okopa, zikwangwani, mawindo a masitolo, ndiponso malonda a pa TV.

[Chithunzi]

Mfumu Louis 13

[Mawu a Chithunzi]

Zachokera m’buku lotchedwa The Historian’s History of the World

[Chithunzi patsamba 4]

Chovala chakale cha nsalu ya bafuta cha ku Egypt ichi n’chimodzi mwa zovala zomwe zakhala m’fasho kwa nthaŵi yaitali padziko lonse

[Mawu a Chithunzi]

Tajambula mololezedwa ndi a British Museum

[Chithunzi patsamba 4]

Kale ku Roma akazi ankavala mikanjo yotere

[Mawu a Chithunzi]

Zachokera m’buku lotchedwa Historia del Traje, 1917

[Chithunzi pamasamba 4, 5]

Chovala chotchedwa kimono chinayamba kuvalidwa mwina m’chaka cha 650 C.E.

[Mawu a Chithunzi]

Zachokera m’nyuzipepala yotchedwa La Ilustración Artística, Volume X, 1891

[Chithunzi patsamba 5]

Kale chovala chokwera mtengo nthaŵi zambiri chinkakhala m’fasho kwa moyo wonse wa munthu

[Mawu a Chithunzi]

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[Chithunzi patsamba 5]

Kukwera kwa ntchito za mafakitale kunachititsa kuti ngakhale anthu wamba ayambe kuganizira za mafashoni

[Mawu a Chithunzi]

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