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Kunika Nsalu Kwakale ndi Kwamasiku Ano

Kunika Nsalu Kwakale ndi Kwamasiku Ano

Kunika Nsalu Kwakale ndi Kwamasiku Ano

YOLEMBEDWA NDI WOLEMBA GALAMUKANI! KU BRITAIN

KODI munaonapo mmene mtundu wa zinthu umakhudzira maganizo athu? N’zosadabwitsa kuti m’mbuyo monsemu anthu akhala akunika nsalu ndi utoto wamitundumitundu.

Tikagula zovala, nsalu kapena zinthu zina zansalu sitifuna kuti zidzasuluke. Pofuna kuti tidziwe mmene amachitira kuti utoto wa nsalu usasuluke ndiponso mmene luso lonika nsalu linayambira, tinapita kunyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale zochititsa chidwi ya SDC Colour Museum. Nyumbayi ili ku Bradford, komwe ndi kumpoto kwa England. * Kumeneku tinaonako ena mwa mankhwala achilendo osiyanasiyana amene anthu akhala akuwagwiritsa ntchito kunikira nsalu kwa zaka zikwi zambiri.

Utoto Umene Ankagwiritsa Ntchito Kale

M’mbuyo monsemu mpaka cha m’ma 1850, utoto umene anthu akhala akugwiritsa ntchito ponika nsalu wakhala ukuchokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe basi, monga zomera, tizilombo ndiponso nkhono. Mwachitsanzo, panali chitsamba chotulutsa utoto wabuluu (1), china chotulutsa utoto wayelo (2), ndipo chinanso chotulutsa utoto wofiira. Utoto wakuda ankautenga ku mtengo winawake, ndipo utoto wa mtundu wa vaileti ankautenga ku ndere. Utoto wapamwamba kwambiri wa mtundu wa pepo ankautenga ku nkhono (3). Utoto umenewu ndi umene ankanikira zovala za mafumu achiroma.

Ngakhale kale kwambiri ufumu wachiroma usanakhalepo n’komwe, anthu otchuka ndiponso olemera ankavala zovala zonika ndi utoto wochokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe. (Estere 8:15) Mwachitsanzo, utoto wofiira ankaupanga kuchokera ku tizilombo tinatake (4). Zikuoneka kuti utoto wofiira kwambiri umene Aisiraeli ankakongoletsera zinthu za pa chihema, komanso zovala za mkulu wa ansembe mu Isiraeli, ankaupanga kuchokera ku tizilombo timeneti.—Eksodo 28:5; 36:8.

Mmene Ntchito Yonika Imachitikira

Zinthu zimene zili m’nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale imeneyo zimasonyeza kuti njira zambiri zonikira zinthu n’zovuta kwambiri, sikuti ndi kungonyika ulusi kapena nsalu mu utoto ayi. Nthawi zambiri pamafunika kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala othandiza kuti utoto ugwirane bwinobwino ndi nsalu. Mankhwalawo amathandiza utotowo kuti usasungunuke ndi madzi. Mankhwala oterewa alipo mitundu yambiri, ndipo ena ndi oopsa.

Njira zina zonikira nsalu zimatulutsa fungo loipa. Imodzi mwa njira zoterezi ndi imene ankaigwiritsa ntchito ku Turkey ponika nsalu ndi utoto wofiira. Njira imeneyi ndi yotenga nthawi yaitali ndiponso yovuta. Ndiyo njira imene ankanikira nsalu za ulusi wathonje. Nsaluzo zinkawala kwambiri ndipo sizinkasuluka ndi dzuwa, kuchapa, kapena mankhwala. Panthawi ina ntchito yonika nsalu mwanjira imeneyi inali kudutsa m’magawo osiyanasiyana okwana 38, ndipo inkatenga mpaka miyezi inayi! Zina mwa nsalu zokongola kwambiri zimene zili m’nyumbayi ndi zonika ndi utoto umenewu (5).

Kubwera kwa Utoto Wochita Kupanga

Anthu amati William Henry Perkin ndiye anapanga utoto woyambirira wosachokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe, m’chaka cha 1856. Pamalo ena m’nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakaleyi, amafotokozapo mmene Perkin anayambira kupanga utoto wina wowala kwambiri, wamtundu wapepo. Pofika kumapeto kwa zaka za m’ma 1800, anthu anali atayamba kupanga mitundu ina yambiri, ndiponso yowala, ya utoto wosachokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe. Masiku ano pali mitundu yoposa 8,000 ya utoto woterewu umene umapangidwa m’mafakitale (6). Utoto wokha wotengedwa ku zachilengedwe umene anthu akugwiritsabe ntchito ndi uja wotengedwa ku mtengo ndi ku tizilombo tinatake.

Kumbali ina m’nyumbayi, kuli malo osonyezerako mitundu ya utoto ndi njira zowombera nsalu. Kumeneko amafotokozako njira zapadera zomwe amafunika kutsatira masiku ano ponika nsalu zosapangidwa kuchokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe, monga mitundu ina ya nsalu zofewa kwambiri. Mtundu wotchuka kwambiri wa nsalu zofewazi ndi nsalu za visikosi. M’chaka cha 1905, m’pamene anayamba kuwomba nsalu zimenezi m’mafakitale. Ulusi wa nsalu za visikosi zimenezi ndi wofananirako ndi ulusi wa nsalu zathonje. Choncho, mitundu yambiri ya utoto womwe unalipo panthawiyo inkagwiritsidwa ntchito kunikira nsalu zimenezi. Komabe panafunika kupanga mitundu yatsopano ingapo ya utoto wonikira nsalu zina zofewa zamakono kwambiri. Nsalu zimenezi ndi za poliyesita, nayiloni ndiponso mitundu ina.

Kupanga Utoto Wosasuluka N’kovuta

Tikamagula zovala kapena zinthu zina zansalu, timafuna kuti zikhale zosasuluka. Komabe, nsalu zambiri zimasuluka ndi dzuwa kapena kuchapa kawirikawiri, makamaka kuchapa ndi mankhwala ochotsera zothimbirira. Zovala zina zimasuluka ndi thukuta kapena kuthimbirira akazichapira limodzi ndi zovala za mitundu ina. Nsalu sisuluka msanga pochapa ngati utoto unagwirana kwambiri ndi ulusi wake. Kuchapa kawirikawiri ndiponso mankhwala ochotsera zothimbirira amachititsa kuti utoto ulekane ndi ulusi wa nsalu. Zikatero, chovala chimasuluka. Makampani opanga utoto wa nsalu amayesa utoto wawo pofuna kuona ngati sungasuluke msanga ndi dzuwa, kuchapa, mankhwala ochotsera zothimbirira, kapena thukuta.

Ulendo wathuwu unatithandiza kudziwa bwino kuti zovala zathu zimapangidwa ndi zinthu zotani. Koma chimene tinayamikira kwambiri paulendowu n’chakuti, tinaphunzira za luso lapamwamba kwambiri limene akugwiritsa ntchito kuti utoto womwe amanikira zovala usasuluke ngakhale timazichapa kawirikawiri.

[Mawu a M’munsi]

^ ndime 4 Gulu la SDC (Society of Dyers and Colourists) limalimbikitsa luso lodziwa kukongoletsa zinthu ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana.

[Mawu a Chithunzi patsamba 24]

Photos 1-4: Courtesy of the Colour Museum, Bradford (www.colour-experience.org)

[Mawu a Chithunzi patsamba 25]

Photo 5: Courtesy of the Colour Museum, Bradford (www.colour-experience.org); Photo 6: Clariant International Ltd., Switzerland